Why “underglazing” is suddenly everywhere
Makeup trends have spent the past few years moving away from opaque coverage and toward skin that looks hydrated, dimensional and convincingly real. The latest expression of that shift is underglazing: a skincare-first approach in which the complexion is carefully prepared beneath makeup so foundation, concealer and complexion products sit more smoothly and reflect light with a softer, healthier finish.
The term has gained fresh attention after Page Six reported that Kendall Jenner is a fan of the technique, describing it as a way to “perfect the canvas” before makeup. Her reported preference reflects a much broader change in beauty culture. Consumers are no longer treating skincare and makeup as separate categories. Instead, they are looking for routines that combine barrier support, strategic hydration, light-reflecting texture and makeup longevity without creating a heavy, visibly layered base.
Underglazing is not a medical procedure, a patented technology or a single product. It is best understood as a method of preparing the skin with compatible, well-tolerated products before applying makeup. The goal is not to make pores disappear or to transform the skin overnight. The goal is to improve the surface conditions that influence how makeup wears: hydration, flaking, excess oil, rough texture and the appearance of dullness.
The central idea is simple: makeup generally performs better when the skin underneath is calm, adequately hydrated and protected from unnecessary irritation.
What does underglazing mean in skincare?
Traditional “glazing” language in beauty often refers to a glossy, dewy or almost lacquered finish. Underglazing shifts that visual effect below the makeup layer. Rather than applying a thick, luminous product on top of foundation, the wearer builds a controlled base underneath it, allowing the skin to appear naturally fresh through sheer or medium-coverage makeup.
A typical underglazing routine may include a gentle cleanser, a hydrating serum, a moisturizer selected for the individual’s skin type and sunscreen during the day. Some people add a primer or a very thin layer of a luminous cream. The most successful version is usually restrained: each layer is allowed to settle, and products are chosen for compatibility rather than piled on indiscriminately.
This distinction matters because a glossy finish is not automatically the same as healthy skin. Excess occlusion, heavy fragrance, aggressive exfoliation or multiple rich layers can trigger irritation, congestion or pilling. A reflective complexion can be created by cosmetic particles, emollients and light-diffusing ingredients; it does not prove that the skin barrier is functioning optimally.
The science behind a smoother makeup base
The outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, helps regulate water loss and protects against environmental stressors. When it becomes dry or disrupted, fine flakes and uneven patches can make foundation cling to certain areas while sliding from others. Humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid attract water, while emollients help soften the spaces between skin cells. Occlusive ingredients can reduce transepidermal water loss by forming a partial protective film.
These ingredient families can support a more even-looking surface, but they behave differently. A serum rich in humectants may feel light yet still require a moisturizer to seal in comfort. A balm or petrolatum-based product may be excellent for severely dry areas but too heavy beneath makeup for someone prone to oiliness or acne. The most elegant underglazing routine is therefore individual, not celebrity-prescriptive.
Niacinamide can support the appearance of uneven tone and barrier function in appropriately formulated concentrations. Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids are useful in barrier-supportive moisturizers, particularly for dry or sensitized skin. Antioxidants such as vitamin C derivatives may complement a morning routine, although they should not be treated as a substitute for sunscreen. Retinoids and exfoliating acids may improve texture over time, but they are active treatments—not instant makeup-prep products—and can cause peeling or irritation if introduced carelessly.
How to build an underglazing routine that works
1. Start with a gentle, non-stripping cleanse
Morning cleansing does not need to leave the face feeling tight or squeaky. For dry, sensitive or eczema-prone skin, rinsing with lukewarm water or using a mild, low-foaming cleanser may be sufficient, depending on the previous evening’s products and individual needs. Oily or acne-prone skin may benefit from a gentle cleanser that removes excess sebum without relying on harsh scrubbing.
Physical exfoliating brushes and abrasive scrubs are rarely necessary for a polished makeup base. They can create temporary smoothness while aggravating redness and barrier disruption. If exfoliation is appropriate, a carefully selected chemical exfoliant used intermittently is generally easier to control than aggressive mechanical friction.
2. Hydrate strategically rather than excessively
Apply a hydrating serum or essence to slightly damp skin if the formula is designed for that use. Glycerin, panthenol and beta-glucan are popular options for comfortable hydration. Hyaluronic acid can be useful, but its performance depends on the full formulation and the moisturizer layered over it; more hyaluronic acid does not necessarily mean more hydration.
Give each layer a short settling period. Applying foundation immediately over several wet products increases the chance of pilling, streaking or uneven pigment distribution. The correct amount is the amount that leaves the skin comfortable and supple without a slippery film.
3. Choose moisturizer according to skin type and climate
Dry skin may respond well to a cream containing ceramides, squalane, shea butter or other emollient ingredients. Combination or oily skin often prefers a lighter lotion or gel-cream, especially in humid weather. A richer moisturizer can still be used selectively on the cheeks or around the mouth rather than across the entire face.
Those with acne-prone skin should look beyond marketing terms such as “clean” or “non-toxic.” Comedogenicity is influenced by concentration, formulation and individual susceptibility, and no label can guarantee that a product will not cause breakouts. Patch testing and gradual introduction remain more useful than assuming that a dewy product is inherently problematic or inherently safe.
4. Apply sunscreen before makeup
Daytime underglazing should end with broad-spectrum sunscreen, generally SPF 30 or higher, applied generously to the face, ears and other exposed areas. Sunscreen must form a continuous film to work effectively, so mixing it directly into foundation can dilute or disrupt protection. Allow it to set before applying makeup, and reapply when exposure, sweating or outdoor activity requires it.
A luminous sunscreen can contribute to the desired finish, but shine should not be confused with adequate protection. Tinted sunscreen may help with visible-light protection when it contains iron oxides, which can be particularly relevant for some forms of hyperpigmentation. Even so, the product must be applied in a sufficient amount.
5. Finish with makeup designed for the prepared canvas
Sheer skin tints, serum foundations and flexible concealers tend to complement underglazing because they allow the underlying finish to remain visible. Apply thin layers with fingers, a damp sponge or a brush, then add coverage only where needed. A small amount of strategic powder on the sides of the nose, under the eyes or in the T-zone can preserve dimension while reducing unwanted shine.
Makeup artists often distinguish between glow and grease. Glow is controlled reflection placed where the wearer wants it; grease is uncontrolled movement, texture emphasis and product breakdown. A successful underglazed complexion usually combines hydration beneath the makeup with selective setting rather than an all-over wet finish.
Underglazing compared with other complexion approaches
The trend sits within a continuum that includes glass skin, skinimalism, traditional primer use and professional resurfacing. These approaches can overlap, but they are not interchangeable. Glass-skin routines often emphasize an intensely reflective appearance through multiple hydrating and luminous layers. Skinimalism uses fewer products and embraces visible texture. Primer focuses primarily on cosmetic performance, while clinical treatments aim to alter skin biology or structure over time.
| Approach | Primary goal | Potential benefits | Precautions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Underglazing | Improve hydration and luminosity beneath makeup | Fresh finish, less visible flaking, flexible coverage | Too many layers may pill, feel greasy or contribute to congestion |
| Mattifying primer | Reduce shine and improve makeup grip | Helpful for oily skin and long wear | May emphasize dryness or feel tight if overused |
| Illuminating primer | Add surface radiance | Fast cosmetic glow and light diffusion | Can highlight texture or increase shine in oily areas |
| Gentle chemical exfoliation | Refine the appearance of uneven texture over time | May improve smoothness and dullness | Overuse can cause burning, peeling and sensitivity |
| Professional resurfacing | Address selected pigment, texture or scarring concerns | Potentially more significant clinical results | Requires qualified assessment, downtime planning and strict aftercare |
What underglazing can—and cannot—do
The immediate benefit is cosmetic. Hydrated skin can look more supple, and a well-chosen moisturizer can reduce the prominence of superficial dryness. Makeup may blend more evenly and feel less likely to catch on flakes. A compatible sunscreen or luminous primer can add radiance without requiring a highlighter across the entire face.
Underglazing cannot permanently shrink pores, erase acne scars, correct melasma or replace treatment for inflammatory skin disease. It also cannot reverse photoaging in a single morning. If the underlying concern is persistent redness, burning, cystic acne, sudden sensitivity or recurrent dermatitis, adding more layers may obscure the problem rather than solve it.
There is also a practical downside to trend-driven routines: the pressure to reproduce a celebrity’s finish can lead consumers to buy multiple products at once. That makes it difficult to identify the cause of a reaction. Fragrance, essential oils, botanical extracts and potent actives can all be irritating for some users, especially when combined.
Clinical safety: when to simplify the routine
Introduce one new product at a time and test it on a small area when feasible. A product that feels pleasant on the hand may still sting around the eyes or trigger acne after repeated use. Stop using a product if it causes persistent burning, swelling, hives or a rapidly worsening rash. Urgent medical attention is appropriate for facial swelling involving the lips or eyes, breathing difficulty or signs of a severe allergic reaction.
People using prescription retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, exfoliating acids or treatment for rosacea should be especially cautious about adding more active ingredients in pursuit of glow. The “perfect canvas” is not worth compromising the barrier. In many cases, the most sophisticated routine is a short one: cleanser, moisturizer, sunscreen and makeup that respects the skin’s current condition.
Professional treatments require an even higher standard of evaluation. Microneedling, chemical peels, lasers and injectable procedures are not extensions of underglazing and should not be marketed as casual shortcuts to celebrity skin. A licensed, appropriately trained medical professional should assess skin type, medical history, medications, pigment risk and realistic outcomes before treatment.
Why the trend matters to the beauty industry
Underglazing reflects the continuing convergence of skincare and color cosmetics. Brands are developing complexion products with barrier-supportive ingredients, flexible pigments and radiant finishes, while skincare companies are increasingly presenting moisturizers and sunscreens as part of a complete makeup routine. The commercial opportunity is substantial because the trend encourages consumers to purchase both preparation products and complexion makeup.
Its cultural influence may be more significant than the word itself. Celebrity adoption helps translate professional makeup artistry into everyday language, but it can also create unrealistic expectations. Studio lighting, image editing, genetics, professional treatments and carefully selected products all shape a public figure’s appearance. A responsible beauty conversation should celebrate the technique without suggesting that a particular face, pore pattern or skin tone is the universal standard.
The next phase is likely to be more personalized. Consumers are becoming more interested in skin-barrier education, ingredient transparency and routines adapted to climate, undertone, acne risk and sensitivity. Makeup may become lighter and more modular, with spot concealing replacing full-face coverage for many wearers. At the same time, dermatologists and aesthetic practitioners will continue to distinguish between a temporary optical effect and a treatment that changes pigmentation, collagen remodeling or disease activity.
Practical underglazing checklist
- Keep the base compatible: If products pill, separate or roll under makeup, reduce the number of layers and allow more time between applications.
- Prioritize barrier comfort: Burning, tightness and persistent redness are signs to simplify the routine rather than add another glow product.
- Use sunscreen correctly: Apply a dedicated broad-spectrum sunscreen in a generous, even layer before makeup; do not rely on mixing it into foundation.
- Introduce actives slowly: Retinoids, exfoliating acids and brightening ingredients can improve long-term concerns but may temporarily cause irritation.
- Match the finish to the skin: Use richer products where the skin is dry and lighter textures where oil, humidity or congestion are concerns.
Frequently asked questions
Is underglazing the same as glass skin?
No. The two ideas overlap because both favor luminosity and hydration, but underglazing specifically describes preparing the skin beneath makeup. Glass skin is a broader aesthetic ideal associated with a highly smooth, reflective complexion, often achieved through skincare, makeup and lighting. Underglazing can be subtle and practical rather than intensely glossy.
Can underglazing help acne-prone skin?
It can, provided the routine is lightweight, non-irritating and suited to the individual. Hydration may reduce the look of dryness caused by acne treatments, but heavy occlusive layers, fragranced products or unsuitable oils can worsen congestion for some people. Acne that is painful, persistent or scarring deserves assessment by a dermatologist rather than more cosmetic layering.
What ingredients are best for a dewy makeup base?
Glycerin, panthenol, beta-glucan, hyaluronic acid, ceramides and selected emollients can support a comfortable, hydrated appearance. The finished formula matters more than a single hero ingredient. Look for products that are well tolerated, compatible with your makeup and appropriate for your skin type. A dewy finish should never require stinging, peeling or aggressive exfoliation.
How long should I wait between skincare and makeup?
There is no universal timer, but each layer should feel settled rather than wet or slippery before the next one is applied. In many routines, a few minutes is enough. If sunscreen or moisturizer continues to move under light touch, use less product, wait longer or simplify the layers. Testing the complete routine before an important event is the best way to identify pilling and separation.
The bottom line
Kendall Jenner’s reported enthusiasm has given underglazing a powerful celebrity spotlight, but the technique’s appeal does not depend on celebrity endorsement. It is a sensible extension of a skincare philosophy that values preparation, restraint and skin that still looks like skin. The strongest version is not the most elaborate one; it is the routine that leaves the face comfortable, protected and compatible with makeup.
Think of underglazing as a method, not a miracle. Hydrate where needed, support the barrier, wear sunscreen, choose makeup with a flexible finish and resist the temptation to treat every texture concern with another active. When the skin is calm, the canvas is already doing much of the work.
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